For Spring Summer 2012 Roberi Parra does what he likes to call “an ode to form and
function”, recreating classic utilitarian pieces with light fabrics and his unique focus on
tailoring and sharp lines. He explores how certain styles surpass the barriers of gender
through play with basic pieces.
The core of the collection comprising sixteen looks rests on two ideas that go hand in
hand: one delves into the necessity driving people to create or modify certain garments
at a given time, and how these eventually become part of the staple of modern dressing.
For instance, an old military M65 field jacket that belonged to his mother inspired the
structure of a men’s jackets and a lady’s day dress.
Women who embrace men’s clothing tend to be looked upon as powerful, whereas
masculinity is questioned if the opposite happens. The exploration of this paradigm leads
to the second idea: a men’s shirt finds its way into a woman’s wardrobe unmodified,
without any adaptation to the female form whatsoever. A fold across the front of a trouser
softens its masculinity, slightly evoking the form of a wrap skirt.
The male shirt is a sophisticated object. Inspired by its classic tuxedo versions, he
interlined the chest to add structure and a crisp finish whist eliminating need for ironing.
The intention was to simply express his pleasing to a certain classic aesthetic rather than
a nostalgic recreation of a traditional piece.
Female silhouettes are fitted and elongated to floor length or shortened at the thigh.
Meanwhile, lace is used to shake things up. It represents a whim of the designer to work
with an element of beauty that would contrast with plain fabrics such as cotton, leather
and linen abundant throughout the collection.
Colours were as austere as the shapes. The designer opted for solid tones of beige and
brown and basic black and white.
With an impeccable execution of simple concepts, Roberi Parra is able to create light,
functional yet beautiful garments that clearly give meaning to the notion that less is more.
- Graciela Martin
Video Lookbook Colección spring/summer 12 #11827
Cámara: Juan Manuel Acosta / Miguel Salguero
Script: Carla Páez Rasquin
Fotografía Diana Baldera para Photo Chigüire Kompany en Foto Arte Estudio.
Maquillaje y Cabello: TFR Studio
Modelos: Isis Malpica y Juan Carlos Expósito.
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| Foto: Diana Baldera |
