DESCOSIDO: Fashion Week

Photos courtesy of Balenciaga

Filling the shoes of someone like Nicolas Ghesquière at a house like Balenciaga is no piece of cake. For Wang's first outing, I found it to be quite an accomplished collection; however, it's not the out of this world, agenda setting show which Nicolas Ghesquière was known for. Wang did not depart much from the traditional volumes and shapes of the house which is a smart move from someone who is beginning to settle in. Still, I would have liked to see him make this collection more his own.
Wang's eponymous label has had a much stronger and clearer point of view. Then again, taking over at Balenciaga would be a tough challenge for anyone, no matter how talented. We grew too attached to Ghesquières' wonders season after season. We saw the house flourish before our eyes over 15 years. It's a harder task than it was for Simons taking over at Dior because Galliano (scandal aside) wasn't at the top of his game when he left, and the heads of Dior wanted a clean slate, Simons just had to bring in his game. Whereas at Balenciaga, everyone couldn't get enough of Nicolas; when he left we were suddenly cut off of fashion heroine. It will take a while to see if Wang can provide that rush again, hopefully a new one.
Even though it was not outstandingly innovative, the collection had some wonderful saleable pieces. The textures and marble-like embroideries were quite beautiful, the cracked effect finish, final fur looks and pants will surely be on fashionistas most wanted lists. Still, I can't help but feel nostalgic when I think about Ghesquières final collections before departing.

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Spontaneity and confidence define the essence of elegance in dressing for Rochas creative director Marcos Zanini. This season the designer played with classics in his own upbeat quirky way: he suggested a rich variety of cozy and warm textures in a palette of camel, black, white, grey, burgundy, mustard yellow, pale pink and baby blue.
Languid pajamas for day were cut in silk chiné or crepe de chine backed in silk. Menswear-leaning blazers done in double-faced wool, were softly rounded through the bust and waist.
Coats were elongated and oversized ranging from a cocoon back pale blue wool bouclé to coffee Prince of Whales Check. They were cleverly mixed with versatile separates like pencil skirts, cropped, bright trousers and heavy knits.
      Needle punched wool sweaters in shades of apricot and mallard green were belted over swooping fifties style circle skirts ( one was done in a baby pink double duchesse silk chiné with royal blue mini cabbage roses).
          Loafers gave a leisurely nonchalant feel, whilst heels and tight calf length skirts brought back femininity and elegance.
    Overall it was an outstanding collection full of wearable, luxurious pieces that exude that Parisian chic elegance without trying too hard, very Rochas indeed.