Ackermann is the Man

Style.com

      Haider Ackermann is one of the true geniuses of this generation. He brings something fresh to the table season after season whilst staying true to his unique, androgynous yet feminine aesthetic. His exquisite choice of fabrics, use of colour, impeccable tailoring and unequivocal way of layering pieces capture the quintessential woman of today: powerful, cosmopolitan, multifaceted who can look exceptionally glamorous and be comfortable in her clothes (and skin) at the same time.
           Ackermann is always looking forward, there is not a hint of vintage or nostalgia in his offerings (ok, there was a very subtle nod to the 80s today); a huge advantage over peers who base their collections on recreating trends from 30, 40 and over 50 years ago. Fashion in general should move forward without looking back so much. Prada manages to pull it off because she always makes it look so incredibly modern, so now.
         Today's show had outstanding outerwear that picked up on the oversize trend sneaking up almost everywhere this season.  Fitted or loose trousers ruched over boots under oversize knits and jackets gave the sensation of a relaxed yet very elegant, luxurious style.
       The belgian-born designer is also a master in creating rich mixes of textures and colour and making them come together in an effortless way. This time around he opted for chocolate brown python leather, velvet, metallics, houndstooth, black leather, forest green and an ocasional black and white graphic print.  He even brought in fur for the first time, making his closing look -a knee length coat thrown over an immaculately white pantsuit- a notable statement.

Balmain: is Mc Hammer the new Creative Director?

             I am so glad to finally read an honest review about Balmain AW13 (Jessica Michault for Nowfashion). I could not believe other respected fashion authorities fail to mention (or recognize) this looks dated and is a too literal interpretation of the 80's. I don't see in which universe of the present time this is a good collection. Yes, the fabrics might have been exquisite and the execution impeccable (c'mon, Rousteing has the finest ateliers at his service duh!) but I don't see these clothes going anywhere other than a delorian ride with Marty McFly back to 1986. I couldn't help but wonder if the soundtrack was "Can't Touch This" (a 1990 song, but still) and if McHammer would take the bow at the end of the show. It's obvious that Rousteing is far too young to remember the 80s, otherwise he would have know better than to bring back the Thriller times of Michael Jackson.

Runway images: Style.com

My Take on Alexander Wang's Debut For Balenciaga

Photos courtesy of Balenciaga

         Filling the shoes of someone like Nicolas Ghesquière at a house like Balenciaga is no piece of cake. For Wang's first outing, I found it to be quite an accomplished collection; however, it's not the out of this world, agenda setting show which Nicolas Ghesquière was known for. Wang did not depart much from the traditional volumes and shapes of the house which is a smart move from someone who is beginning to settle in. Still, I would have liked to see him make this collection more his own.
         Wang's eponymous label has had a much stronger and clearer point of view. Then again, taking over at Balenciaga would be a tough challenge for anyone, no matter how talented. We grew too attached to Ghesquières' wonders season after season. We saw the house flourish before our eyes over 15 years. It's a harder task than it was for Simons taking over at Dior because Galliano (scandal aside) wasn't at the top of his game when he left, and the heads of Dior wanted a clean slate, Simons just had to bring in his game. Whereas at Balenciaga, everyone couldn't get enough of Nicolas; when he left we were suddenly cut off of fashion heroine. It will take a while to see if Wang can provide that rush again, hopefully a new one.
 Even though it was not outstandingly innovative, the collection had some wonderful saleable pieces. The textures and marble-like embroideries were quite beautiful, the cracked effect finish, final fur looks and pants will surely be on fashionistas most wanted lists. Still, I can't help but feel nostalgic when I think about Ghesquières final collections before departing.

Gallery: Rochas Autumn Winter 2013

 
Spontaneity and confidence define the essence of elegance in dressing for Rochas creative director Marcos Zanini.  This season the designer played with classics in his own upbeat quirky way: he suggested a rich variety of cozy and warm textures in a palette of camel, black, white, grey, burgundy, mustard yellow, pale pink and baby blue.
 Languid pajamas for day were cut in silk chiné or crepe de chine backed in silk. Menswear-leaning blazers done in double-faced wool, were softly rounded through the bust and waist.
 Coats were elongated and oversized ranging from a cocoon back pale blue wool bouclé to coffee Prince of Whales Check. They were cleverly mixed with versatile separates like pencil skirts, cropped, bright trousers and heavy knits.
      Needle punched wool sweaters in shades of apricot and mallard green were belted over swooping fifties style circle skirts ( one was done in a baby pink double duchesse silk chiné with royal blue mini cabbage roses).
          Loafers gave a leisurely nonchalant feel, whilst heels and tight calf length skirts brought back femininity and elegance. 
    Overall it was an outstanding collection full of wearable, luxurious pieces that exude that Parisian chic elegance without trying too hard, very Rochas indeed. 

London Fashion Week Highlights AW 2013

 Visita algunos de los mejores momentos de la semana de la moda de Londres de la temporada Otoño/Invierno 2013